where is the airpods control center on watchOS 11

It used to be, when I was listening to music through my Apple Watch Ultra (I leave my phone behind while at the gym), that I could select very easily the AirPods control center from the now playing screen. You used to be able to toggle from there the Transparency, Off, and Noise Cancellation and other various controls from there.

Sure, there's the various toggles by hitting random things on the side of the AirPods themselves, but this control center was very clear and concise as to what you were doing and attempting.

Why is Apple making so many things so much more complicated with the new OS's?